Wine enthusiasts flock to Alto Adige
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Nestled in the heart of the Italian Alps, Alto Adige (South Tyrol) is a region that boasts a deep-rooted wine culture and a unique terroir that produces some of the most exquisite wines in Italy.
The region is home to several key wineries, including Abbazia di Novacella, Elena Walch, Castelfeder, and Cantina Bolzano (Kellerei Bozen).
Abbazia di Novacella is renowned for its focus on white grape varieties, particularly the Austrian-origin Sylvaner—celebrated for its elegance and aging potential—and also produces Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, and Riesling.
Elena Walch is a prominent estate known for high-quality whites like Gewürztraminer grown in its unique south-facing Kastelaz vineyard, as well as notable reds including the Pinot Nero “Ludwig” (second-best Pinot Noir in Italy) and Lagrein Riserva “Castel Ringberg.”
Castelfeder is known for its Lagrein wines, a rich and deep red varietal distinctive to the region.
Cantina Bolzano (Kellerei Bozen) is a major cooperative controlling around 350 hectares and producing about 3 million bottles annually, representing a substantial portion of Alto Adige’s wine production with an emphasis on mountain wines and quality.
Alto Adige is especially esteemed for its world-class white wines but also produces notable alpine-style reds, often characterized by elegance and complexity derived from its mountainous terroirs. For whites, Sylvaner, Gewürztraminer, Grüner Veltliner, Kerner, Riesling, and Pinot Grigio are principal varieties. For reds, Lagrein, Pinot Nero (Pinot Noir), and sometimes Pinot Grigio (a white from a red grape) are important.
Apart from these key wineries, the region also hosts several other notable establishments. Alois Lageder Paradeis, an organic-certified winery restaurant, specializes in light and tasty dishes with much use of estate-grown vegetables, paired with Alois Lageder wines. The simple family-run hotel, Angerburg, stands in a large garden with an orchard and pool, and serves traditional dishes and local wines. Casa del Vino Punkt is a locals' bar and showcase for Caldaro wines, offering 20-25 wines by the glass, personalized tastings, and typical snacks including smoked sausage and local cheese.
The region's unique terroir, with its wide temperature swings, allows for wines that combine the fresh, fragrant aromas of cooler climates with warm-weather power and complexity. Vines grow at various altitudes, from 200m to 1,000m, with Bolzano, the main city, at its heart.
Protected by mountains, Bolzano registers some of Italy's hottest summer temperatures, allowing vines to flourish. The historic center of Bolzano has numerous references to wine in road names, frescoes, and the cathedral's medieval 'wine door.'
Alto Adige's cooperatives play a significant role in the region's wine production, experimenting with different varieties and methods. The Caldaro cooperative, for instance, is currently trying out different Schiava clones.
Castel Mareccio, located near Bolzano, is known for Lagrein vines surrounding it, while the Isarco valley, northeast of Bolzano, is home to white grapes such as Kerner and Sylvaner, with a new sparkling Sylvaner version due for launch in December 2022.
The region's wine scene is much celebrated, yet much of it never leaves the region. Grafhof, a historic Buschenschank (farmhouse winery serving food), which overlooks Bolzano, offers tasty home cooking such as spinach-filled pasta, paired with Schiava wine. Loewengrube is Bolzano's oldest restaurant, dating from 1543, featuring medieval frescoes, a thousand-strong wine list, and a menu featuring dishes such as braised lamb cannelloni.
Rifugio Oberholz is a contemporary mountain hut (2,096m above sea level) offering spectacular scenery and superb cuisine, including Alpine beef with a Lagrein Riserva and sweet kaiserschmarrn pancakes. Hotel Weinegg is a five-star resort hotel with a well-equipped spa, indoor-outdoor pool, superb dining, and an impressive wine list including bottles from the owner's family estate. Panholzer offers suite accommodations among the vines near lake Caldaro, with a gorgeous stone farmhouse restaurant and courtyard garden.
Vineyards in Alto Adige range from sandy marl and limestone to schist or porphyry, contributing to the region's diverse and complex wine profiles. The region is accessible, with Bolzano airport having some international flights and Alto Adige Bus running regular shuttles. It is 60km from Trento, 150km from Verona, and 120km from Innsbruck.
Lastly, Alto Adige is renowned for its traditional-method spumante, with Pinot Nero, Chardonnay, and Pinot Bianco being key players. The region's Abbazia di Novacella, active since 1142, is among the world's oldest wineries and is fascinating to visit.
[1] Abbazia di Novacella [2] Elena Walch [3] Castelfeder [4] Cantina Bolzano (Kellerei Bozen) [5] Cantina Bolzano (Kellerei Bozen) - Wine Production
- For those seeking a unique wine travel experience, the lifestyle destinations of Alto Adige offer more than just world-class food-and-drink – they provide opportunities to immerse oneself in the rich history and diverse terrain that shape the region's distinctive home-and-garden terroir, producing wines that combine the elegant aromas of cooler climates with the warm-weather power and complexity.
- To truly appreciate the nuances of the region's food-and-drink, consider a visit to Alois Lageder Paradeis, where each dish is thoughtfully crafted to complement the estate-grown wines and elevate the dining experience to new heights, blending the essence of lifestyle and sustainable living.
